Picture this: You’ve finally got your annual free pass and now you’re back on two wheels, heading south roaring through picturesque landscapes, fueled by adrenaline, and destined for adventure. Slapped between France and Spain, the Pyrenees mountain range stands a monumental testament to the forces of nature, its majestic rugged battlements a captivating playground for two wheeled adventure seekers.
 

 
As a motorcyclist, there is no better way to experience the rugged beauty and exhilarating roads of this region than on two wheels. With its winding mountain passes, breathtaking vistas, and charming towns, the Pyrenees offers an unforgettable journey for riders seeking the perfect blend of natural splendour and thrilling riding experiences. These legendary mountains have become the holy grail for those in pursuit of the perfect ride.
 

 
After spending 12 years living in France and Spain as a chef, engineer, motorcycle tour guide and photographer exploring both the Alps and Pyrenees, it was the Pyrenees that always haunted my dreams, forever calling me back. But, let me warn you, beneath their charming allure lies a quirky blend of twists, turns, and surprises that will leave you wanting more. I’ll tell you here and now one trip won’t be enough, so beware the compulsion of an impending return.
 

 
One of the most appealing aspects of the Pyrenees for motorcyclists is the abundance of diverse twisty roads that wind their way through the mountains. From legendary routes like the Col du Tourmalet, Col d’Aubisque and Col de Peyresourde to hidden gems like the Col d’Aspin, Col du Soulor or Route du Lac. Then there’s the epic border crossings of Port de Larrau, Col du Pourtalet and my favourite, Col de la Pierre-Saint-Martin, it’s beyond me how that pass has never been seen in a James Bond movie car chase. One of the locals tolled me they used to hold races over this pass, and it’s a perfect road for it. Allegedly, I may or may not have, on occasion, very early in the morning, seriously stretched the speed limit here.
 

 
The Pyrenees are a dream come true for those who crave the excitement of steep tight corners and sweeping curves in a landscape reminiscent of The Hobbit. Each turn presents a new challenge, and every ascent rewards riders with awe-inspiring views of jagged peaks, deep valleys, and picturesque landscapes. And that’s just on the French side, the Spanish side is as different as it is mind blowing, and also utterly unmissable.
 

 
The Pyrenees, where the roads are as winding as my granny’s celtic knitting patterns and twisted as a politician’s morality, this is where gravity seems to play hide-and-seek with your sense of reality. One moment, you’re hugging the curves like a pro; the next, you’re praying for dear life as your bike hurtles along the edge of yet another precipice. And that’s not the only head twister. You might think, as I have on many occasions, that the local animals have conspired with the Pyrenees to give you a taste of their unique sense of humour. Picture this: free range cows playing hide-and-seek on a hairpin bend or an audacious marmot standing guard like a pint-sized roadblock in the middle of the road.
 

 
As bizarre as it seems I once came to a road block high in the Basque Pyrenees manned by a fecken horse which proceeded to paw my windscreen with its hoof. I mean seriously WTF. A day in the Pyrenees is never a dull day. Unless it’s raining.
 

 
That reminds me, let’s talk about the weather. Mountain weather can be a fickle bitch at the best of times, but the Pyrenees can take that to a whole new level. One day, you’re basking in the glorious Mediterranean sun, feeling like the King, Queen or “as it’s now 2023”, Gender Fluid non Binary non Denominational Deity of the mountain roads. The next day, though, the weather gods may decide to hurl absolute fecken chaos on your plans. Rain, fog, screen cracking hail, hurricane force winds, floods and even snow – all in one ride? Yes, welcome to the enigmatic world of the Pyrenees, where mixed up meteorology can royally mess up your well laid plans whilst Mother Nature gives you a wedgie – after mugging you for good measure.
 

 
I once started my day, the 18 of May 2013 to be exact, just south of Bordeaux and heading towards Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port in the Pyrénées-Atlantiques department in south-western France. I’ll forget my own birthday, but not this day. It started as a beautiful morning, it was 19C, full of spring promise and I was bursting to reach the mountains where I was meeting a few lads on my first tour of the season starting the next day. By 11am it was hammering down, by 12pm I’d witnessed my first proper big tornado which overtook me about 1km to the east before swinging across the road in front and flipped over a fuel truck causing a biblical level of mayhem and closing the road. I was forced to ride 5km off road through farmland to bypass the chaos and re enter my route. That bit was fun I admit, but that was the only good part of my day. By 2pm I was properly in the now extremely moist Pyrenees with the temperature at 10C, by 3pm it was 4C and still hammering down so heavy my satnav drowned, giving up the ghost along with the fog lights on my 800GS. By 5pm I was lost thanks to my dead satnav and the constantly twisty Pyrenean roads and fog messing with my sense of direction. It was now -9C according to my GS’s thermostat thingy, I’d not have believed it but it was also snowing and I was nearly frostbit. The nasty feeling that I’m in real trouble was now also playing on my mind. I managed to keep my head, and after praying to Odin I eventually found my way to my hotel – with no small amount of help from an orienteering compass I always carry for emergencies. The next and following days were dry and around 25 lower down and 10C on the higher passes, talk about mood swings
 

 
Now, being Irish, I’m used to bad weather, I’d previously done a mountain survival course, and I was wearing good kit, but believe me, you need to pay close attention to the daily weather forecast for the area of the Pyrenees you are in. It won’t matter how well prepared you are, if the Pyrenees want to kick you off they will. After seeing the temperature drop 20 degrees C in 3-ish hours, almost 30 degrees in the course of a day I was never to take the Pyrenees lightly again. On two further occasions in the Pyrenees while leading tours I had to call a change of route and make a run off the high roads due to insane constant hail the size of marbles, the other due to flash floods which were washing away entire roads and villages. But that’s all part of the adventure, some of my best memories are the ones where shit went south.
 

 
Top Tip: If the weather on the French side is mucky just hop across the border to the Spanish side where you’ll more than likely be immediately met with blistering sunshine. The weather from July to late September is generally stable, but May and early June can definitely be a wild card when it comes to storms and flash flooding which seems to be a regular occurrence there these days.
 

 
The Pyrenees region boasts an impressive network of well-maintained roads, offering a diverse range of riding experiences. Whether you prefer the thrill of hairpin bends or the sweeping curves of alpine passes, there is a road to suit every rider’s taste. The smooth tarmac, coupled with minimal traffic on some routes, allows motorcyclists to fully immerse themselves in the thrill of the ride, taking full advantage of the capabilities of their machines.
 

 
Beyond the exhilarating roads, the Pyrenees also beckon with their natural splendour. As a motorcyclist, you have the opportunity to witness breathtaking scenery at every turn. From verdant valleys and lush meadows to dramatic cliffs and cascading waterfalls, the Pyrenees offer an indescribably diverse tapestry of landscapes that will leave you in awe. The Atlantic and Mediterranean sides are very different, while there is a drastic difference to the French and Spanish sides. Riding through the Pyrenees is like navigating through middle earth, where every frame could be a picture-perfect moment. From the violently verdant green high peaks of the Basque Pyrenees to the rugged and grandiose mountain vistas and wide sweeping rivers of Arragon reminiscent of an old western movie. If there is one piece of advice I’d impart to anyone it’s this, do not under any circumstance pass into the next life without exploring the Pyrenees. I once spent 3 hours sitting on a rock overlooking the switch back road leading to Cirque de Troumouse pondering if this was the spot God began the creation. That’s another thing about the Pyrenees, sooner or later their scale and unimaginable beauty will hit you like a tonne bag of fat squirrels and all you’ll want to do is sit on a rock for a bit of alone time in an attempt to take it all in.
 

 
The Pyrenees are not only a paradise for riding enthusiasts but also a treasure trove of cultural experiences. Along the way, you’ll encounter charming villages and towns, each with its own unique character. Stop in quaint hamlets like Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port or Ax-les-Thermes to immerse yourself in the local culture, sample traditional cuisine, or simply relax and enjoy the warm hospitality of the Pyrenean people. The Pyrenees offer a delightful blend of French and Spanish influences, creating a rich tapestry of gastronomy, architecture, and traditions. Being an ex chef is another reason I adore the Pyrenees. Every adventure comes with its gastronomic highlights, and the Pyrenees don’t disappoint. Park your bike, and you’ll discover a mouthwatering selection of hearty stews, sumptuous cheeses, and delectable wines to appease your hungry soul. Just remember not to stuff yourself too much, trust me, the last thing you need is a food coma while navigating those hairpin turns alongside perilous cliffs.
 

 
As with any adventure, it’s crucial to plan and prepare for your motorcycle journey through the Pyrenees. Check weather conditions, pack appropriate gear, and ensure your bike is serviced and in optimal condition as you’ll likely be a long way from a mechanic. Familiarise yourself with the local traffic regulations (most definitely the Spanish rules) and be mindful of wildlife, especially in the more remote areas. Additionally, consider the best time to visit, spring and early June can certainly be hit and miss on the French side. July and August you’ll have to deal with herds of other tourists (not as bad as the Alps though) as well as potentially extreme heat on the Spanish side. Personally, my favourite time is always Sept and Oct, less tourists/traffic, ideal weather and all the passes will be open.
 

 
To sum this up, the Pyrenees offer motorcyclists an unmatched blend of thrilling rides, awe-inspiring landscapes, and cultural immersion. Whether you’re a seasoned rider seeking the ultimate challenge or a leisurely traveller looking to soak in the natural beauty, the Pyrenees will leave an indelible mark on your soul. So hop on your motorcycle, embrace the wanderlust of the Pyrenean roads, and embark on an unforgettable adventure through this magnificent mountain range. The Pyrenees are waiting to be explored, and the experience will be nothing short of extraordinary. As you ride into the sunset, ready to take on the next twisty challenge, remember this: the Pyrenees will test your skills, enlighten your mind, steal a piece of your heart and gift you with memories that will last a lifetime.
 

 
But which is the best route to take to hit those unmissable roads and cols I hear you ask? There are two “basic” tourist routes. On the French side there’s the official “Route des Cols” tourist route running roughly along the D918. It’s good, but it’s catering for cars and camper vans, not motorcycles, so it really misses out on a lot of great stuff if you stick to it. On the Spanish side the road to look for is the N-260 which runs from Olot on the Med side to Sabinanigo, parts of it are fantastic, again though if you stick to it you’ll be missing out on so much.
 

 
This means that you need to do some research and route planning which for many is one of the best parts, it’s where the trip begins. Or, for those short on time and want the absolute best from someone who’s ridden across the Pyrenees many times over the years you can get one of my routes.

I’ve put together a .gpx route, a self guided tour of the best possible motorcycle touring route for the Pyrenees that border hops along both the French and Spanish sides taking in 45 cols, linking the most amazing road sections and all the best highlights from my many trips across the Pyrenees.

Read more here:
RoadTroopers Border Hop Pyrenees Motorcycle Tour

Oh, and one last thing. If by chance you find yourself in need of a “been there” sticker or tee of the Pyrenees or your favorite col you can find them along with 100′s of other touring sticker designs in my online store. The proceeds of which go towards keeping this site on-line, independent, and ad free – www.RoadTrooperStore.com
 

Tags: Ainsa, Basque Pyrenees, Benasque Valley, Canyon de Anisclo, Cirque de Troumousse, Col d'Aubisque, Col de Burdincurutcheta, Col de la Pierre-Saint-Martin, Col de Soulor, Col de Tentes, Col du Pierre St Martin, Col du Portillon, Col du Pourtalet, Col du Solour, Col du Soulor, Col du Tourmalet, Download GPS Routes, French Pyrenees, gps routes, GPS Routes France, GPS Routes Spain, Lac de Cap-de-Long, motorcycle routes france, Motorcycle Routes Spain, Motorcycle Touring, Motorcycle Touring Spain, Navarra, Occitanie, Ordesa National Park, Pic du Midi, Port de Bielsa, Pyrenees, Pyrenees Atlantiques, Pyrenees Motorcycle Tour, Pyrenees National Park, Pyrenees Routes, Pyresees, Route du Lac, Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, Spain, Spanish Pyrenees, Tourmalet